菲比·赫斯特会喜欢的 咖啡馆表示这家餐厅有40个座位，只接受预订 加州大学伯克利分校位于班克罗夫特街一侧 人类学博物馆 以赫斯特的名字命名. While it’s impossible to say if Hearst would have preferred the tan oak acorn bisque or the venison and mushroom stew, 哪些特点是手工采集的鸡油菌, 牡蛎, 还有羊肚菌, it is definitely true that Hearst was a friend of the Ohlone. 的确，她是他们的邻居.
“She is still referred to by the elders as Auntie Phoebe,” 咖啡馆表示 cofounder Vincent 麦地那说. 赫斯特住在一个 大厦 就在小溪对面 Alisal印第安人村落bbin游戏官网家一直住在那里，直到20世纪20年代. 她雇佣了年轻的女孩和妇女, providing some economic safety at a time of extreme hardship for our people. 有很多故事,他补充道, “如何, 在他们完成工作之后, she would ask them to stand on the roofs of their casitas and wave once they got home, to make sure they had all gotten across the creek safely. 她照顾这些家庭.”
作为这些家庭的朋友, Hearst (1842–1919) would have probably been less enamored with the actions of her namesake institution, 和加州大学的其他学生一样吗, 加州大学伯克利分校, 坐落在从部落偷走的奥隆土地上. As it turned out, this was not even the worst of the many indignities to befall the Ohlone. “The university erroneously declared our people extinct in 1925,麦地那说。, “which led to the loss of our family’s federal recognition, something that our great-grandparents actually lived through.”
In addition to collecting woven baskets and other cultural objects produced by Indigenous artisans throughout California, the university’s anthropologists also collected countless human remains. “They removed thousands of our ancestors from our cemeteries,麦地那说。. Today, their bones are still secreted away at the Hearst Museum. 从2023年春季开始 博物馆闭馆 直到遣返遗骸的问题解决为止.
考虑到这段令人担忧的历史, 在奥隆咖啡馆吃饭, where the prix fixe menu can run in excess of $100 per person, 显然不仅仅是为了吃点东西. 事实上, Ohlone咖啡馆的中心任务之一是, 正如麦地那所说, 不断提醒人们奥隆人就在这里, bbin游戏官网的文化还活着, bbin游戏官网从未离开过bbin游戏官网的家, bbin游戏官网明天还会在这里. 每餐前, we share the context of why we’re doing this work with our guests, 诚实地谈论bbin游戏官网的历史, from the times before colonization to where we are today. When people know those things, we believe they can’t unknow those things.”
Food, of course, is a tried-and-true way to experience a culture. 就奥隆菜而言, 虽然, the challenge is not just to learn how to savor new flavors but also to expunge from one’s mind the preconceptions one might have about Native American cooking.
“当我还是个孩子的时候,麦地那回忆道, “我会拿起一本关于加州印第安人的书, 每件事都被描述得如此无礼. 橡子汤被称为橡子粥.’ But preparing acorns is a long process—it takes about six months from beginning to end to make acorn soup, 做橡子面包的时间更长. 它包括收集橡子, 治疗他们, 准备面粉, 浸出单宁酸, 把橡子煮进汤里, 然后再煮下去. During the salmon run that traditionally went through San Francisco Bay, salmon that had been caught and smoked would be dipped into that acorn soup; the oils of the salmon would blend so nicely with the sweetness of the prepared acorn. Our food is extremely elegant and 复杂的,麦地那说。.
As an outdoor restaurant, 咖啡馆表示 is shaded by valley oaks, sycamores, and a built ramada. “The space itself represents living culture,麦地那说。. “There’s an abalone curtain that you walk through and a shellmound in the back that’s full of plant life. And we always keep a table open for our elders and families in case any members want to come in and have a meal with us. Our elders are seated at the head of the table, and you see how represented they feel.”
你可以成为这个家庭的一员, 太, and while your experience at 咖啡馆表示 may last only a few hours, what you learn about the Ohlone will stay with you for the rest of your life.
The lessons are more hopeful than you might think, all things considered. “殖民造成了很多悲伤, 毫无疑问,麦地那说。, “但是千百年来无法计数, bbin游戏官网的人民生活得很好, 快乐, 有意义的, 复杂的, 和丰富的生活.“最后, 麦地那说, the story of “how people transcended the hardships of colonization and kept the culture alive, 尽管发生了很多不公平的事情, shows the love that our people have always had for our culture, 这片土地, 和家人. Look at us through that lens—the lens of triumph, victory, persistence, strength, and power. 这些都是bbin游戏官网希望人们将bbin游戏官网与之联系在一起的特质.”
